Now the pendulum has started to swing back, with upper materials and components viewed as a category ripe for change.

 High performing, comfortable and eco-friendly were inspirational goals during the development of Flyknit all those years ago and these characteristics remain a solid foundation for innovation. The challenge now is creating uppers that up the game functionally, aesthetically, and sustainably in new and different ways.

David Allemann, co-founder of the Swiss athletic footwear brand On is already thinking about the next generation of uppers. In a recent episode of “The Future of Everything” podcast, produced by the Wall Street Journal, host Jacob Gallagher asked Allemann, “So what is it going to take to move the running shoe forward overall?” Allemann, responds, “We are actually working on a project that rethinks the shoe upper really from scratch, because sometimes uppers have been a little bit neglected, and more work has gone into outsoles. And I can just reveal it’s not a new textile. It’s really a 360-degree innovation that will change how a shoe is engineered, designed, made, how it looks, how it feels, and how it performs. What I can say is it’s definitely a manufacturing innovation, and so I suggest you keep your eyes open during the Olympics.”

Allemann adds, “It’s now really not about going back to the past and the archives, but it’s about going to the future.” In other words, what’s the outlook on footwear innovation in 2024?

Demand for “Newness”

“We’re seeing a transition from a conservative approach, due to recent market uncertainties, to an appetite for newness,” explains Ryan Nicholson, VP of Marketing, MESH01, a product research and testing solution based in Nashua, NH. “There is a desire for fresh, exciting and demand-generating product with both performance and an eco-element.”

Nicholson, whose background is in product development and merchandising, highlights Trail as a category to watch. “There are so many environmental variables to contend with in trail footwear,” explains Nicholson. “The question of how much traction and cushioning, in addition to the challenges around breathability and waterproofness, makes it an interesting and evolving category.”

In terms of upper materials, Nicholson calls attention to bio-based and recycled synthetic yarns for performance shoes and hemp in casual applications.

Natural Fiber Welding (NFW), for example, is developing a collection of bio-neutral materials for footwear and apparel. “Bio-neutral” is a term the Illinois-based firm uses for things that can return to the earth without harm. NFW’s innovations for footwear are Mirum, a plant-based, plastic-free leather alternative; Pliant, a sustainably-sourced natural rubber for outsoles molded with plant-based curatives; and Tunera, a bio-neutral alternative to PVA and TPU foams.

Categories to Watch

The Functional Fabric Fair held in Portland, OR earlier this Spring featured 139 materials and accessories within the expanded Footwear Forum area. Reporting on the qualities on display, textile expert Alexa Dehmel pointed out footwear upper materials featured in the Synthetic Fabric category including biodegradable polyester mesh and recycled versions of polyester, nylon, polypropylene and polyurethane. Additionally, in the Natural Fabric category, Dehmel highlighted upper textiles such as 100 percent hemp, wool knitted fabric and Abacell, described as a “paper yarn” blend.

Also notable in the Spring ’24 Footwear Forum was a new category called “Apparel-Inspired Footwear Fabrics.” Materials included in this collection were Sherpa jersey made with recycled wool, recycled polyester from textile waste and biodegradable two-layer fabrics with a bio-based nylon membrane made from castor oil. This category signals another trend supported by both Nicholson and Dehmel; Brands are developing “platforms” that include materials workable both for garments and shoes.

Here are a few examples of today’s forward-thinking approach to upper materials:

La Sportiva: The Prodigio PRO, for ultrarunners and trail enthusiasts, features a “Power Wire” mesh upper constructed of a TPU coated polyester and TPU and nylon reinforcement for stiffness, shape and structure. Eco elements include an upper lining made with recycled 3D mesh fabric, and recycled laces.

Vasque: From the Re:connect collection, the HERE Mid has 100 percent recycled polyester mesh, 85 percent recycled polyester webbing, and a 60 percent recycled content heel counter. The  eco-stylish, warm-weather HERE Mid functions as a light hiker and a good look on city streets.

Diadora: A trail debut, the Equipe Sestriere XT, is designed to perform on all natural terrains from grass to rocks. The protective upper features the addition of polyurethane application that extends from the toe box to rear of the shoe for enhanced structure.

mōshn: The Vigor has a breathable, comfort stretch upper with a “yoga pants-like” feel, and is designed for post workout recovery. The Smartknit uppers are machine washable.

8000Kicks: The Explorer takes advantage of hemp’s super-strong fibers to offer a durable yet comfortable shoe with a sustainability-first approach to minimalist style.