The footwear landscape is dotted with fresh takes on performance this season with brands showcasing new approaches to material selection and design direction that are proving a good fit for a wide range of categories, from tactical to on-trend athleisure and active styles to recyclable running shoes.

This current field of value-added innovative footwear offerings reflects a broader interpretation of performance. In the past, fabric functionality talking points focused mainly on breakthrough technology achievements often described in quantitative and scientific terminology. These days, wearability is central to the performance story. Attributes derived from new and different ways textiles are used and how footwear is constructed to enhance fit, feel, fashion flair and sustainability are conversation starters. As high-tech solutions like waterproofness and breathability become “expected” functionality in footwear, lifestyle benefits like versatility and ultra-comfort are front and center.

Material considerations and design concepts gaining ground in today’s pursuit of performance include use of natural fibers, undyed fabrics, digital processes, and eco-forward manufacturing practices.

Material Matters  

Innovation in wool footwear this Spring and Summer comes in the form of digitally knit sneakers and slip-on styles that look, feel and function beyond traditional boiled wool or sheet stock formats. The brand Woolloomooloo spins Australian Merino wool into a superfine thread that is digitally knit to create a lightweight material that features strength, durability and elevated comfort, both in upper and lining applications. Sustainable materials drive design to build shoes that are better for your feet and the planet, according to the company, adding that the wool used in the Woolloomooloo product is renewable, washable, and biodegradable.

Developments in the tactical footwear sector highlight advanced fit-for-purpose functionality. The newest T8 Defense model from Garmont Tactical, a specialist in multi-terrain tactical footwear, incorporates D30, a soft, flexible protective shock absorbing membrane, strategically placed in the boot to reduce impacts and increase comfort. “The idea was to build a boot that is structurally sound and also gives a lot of support, and protection,” explains Garmont Tactical sales manager Kyle Ferdyn. “The D30 is used on both sides of the ankle bone areas and the entire tongue piece to reduce tension above the foot when descending or moving forward.” He adds that the D30 foam under the ball and heel foot offers impact resistance and mitigates fatigue during long periods of standing.

Garmont Tactical is one of the first to apply this material to tactical footwear; D30 is an established ingredient often used in Formula1, cycling and motorcycling racing markets. .

Looking ahead, Garmont Tactical sees increased opportunities for advancements in the law enforcement category and in the women’s side of the business across categories with strategic use of the D30 performance membrane and curated design details. “Evolving more versatile footwear is important to the growth of the brand,” Ferdyn shares.

Design Developments

The INDEX.03 is Salomon’s latest and most advanced version of its INDEX shoe. It features a comprehensive, detail-focused ecodesign approach that results in significant impact reduction.

Marc Peyregne, Salomon’s ecodesign & circularity senior manager, explains that a number of improvements were made from the previous model, including the use of a lighter midsole material, 100 percent recycled polyester for the tongue, and a more efficient cutting process for the upper parts, reducing wasted material from 40 percent to just 26 percent. “The core concept endures—a fully recyclable shoe crafted from two key components: TPU for the lower section below the distinctive red line, and polyester for the upper part.”

The ability to recycle materials across categories is a good example of eco-efficiency. States Peyregne: “During the recycling of our shoes, we are particularly interested in the TPU foam of the sole. To determine where we would use this material, we looked at our products where we already used TPU and tested its application. It turned out that the collar of our ski boots was the most relevant application, as some models already used TPU.”

“Materials teams worked with our suppliers to improve the foam characteristics for more cushioning and comfort, and our designers to create a more desirable design,” says Peyregne. “Throughout the creation process, the teams focused on making a recyclable running shoe, which required rethinking the way we design the shoe and simplifying it as much as possible.”

Redefining an original by “pushing boundaries, balancing performance, comfort and style,” is the case with the new R.A.D ONE V2 shoe, according to Tom Berend, head of footwear design at R.A.D. The buzzy training brand R.A.D was founded by former Cross Fit athlete Ben Massey with industry vet Berend, with the R.A.D ONE launching in 2022. The brand’s new V2 shoe uses “power mesh” for better breathability and features a new SwellFoam BIO EVA midsole for improved cushioning during long training sessions. The upper has additional padding in the collar and tongue, plus an anatomical sock liner to elevate comfort.  

Improved fit to enhance performance factored in the design of the new Head Motion Pro BOA pickleball shoe, the first of its kind in the U.S. to feature BOA’s PerformFit Wrap upper.

Inspired by minimal research available aimed to better understand how the fit of the shoe upper affects performance, a published paper, titled, “Alternative upper configurations during agility-based movements: part 1, biomechanical performance” looked at how BOA’s Performance Fit Configurations can improve the agility and speed of athletes.

Based on athlete participation at the Human Dynamics Lab at the University of Denver, calculations were taken of six key performance variables in sports requiring rapid changes in direction. Results from the study showed that the BOA tri panel and y-wrap configurations improved athlete performance by between three and nine percent depending on the movement and variable tested. Additionally, BOA lace replacement configuration improved performance relative to traditional shoelaces in a few variables as well.

“Pickleball, like other court sports, requires players to change direction quickly and efficiently,” says Kate Harrison, director of the BOA Performance Fit Lab. “The BOA Fit System with PerformFit Wrap used on the Head Motion Pro creates optimal, even pressure across the foot, locking in the heel to deliver improvements in stability and control, power transfer, and energy efficiency, making a meaningful difference during those quick pivots and back-to-back games.”

Head / Motion Pro BOA

Pickleball shoe with BOA Perform Fit Wrap locks in the heel for stability, control and energy efficiency. Reinforced forefoot enhances durability for toe-dragging and sliding.

Garmont Tactical / T8 Defense

Features D30, a soft, flexible protective shock absorbing membrane, strategically placed in the boot to reduce impacts and increase comfort.

Woolloomooloo / Suffolk Merino Wool Slip-On

Created from 100 percent Aussie merino wool and digitally knit from toe to heel including the shoe lining.

R.A.D. / ONE V2

Elevates breathability and durability with lightweight yet strong power mesh.  Herringbone tread pattern intensifies grip.

Salomon / INDEX. 03

Unisex recyclable running shoes are designed with circularity in mind. Upper is constructed to reduce waste and features undyed fabrics.