Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) is an Amsterdam-based organization built to protect the planet by phasing out hazardous chemicals from the textile, apparel, leather and footwear value chains. Its Roadmap to Zero Programme has 320 signatories including brands and suppliers dedicated to more sustainable manufacturing including Brooks, Lululemon, BASF and Target.

As Chief Impact Officer at ZDHC, Echols leads initiatives to measure the impact of sustainable chemical management as part of ZDHC’s holistic Nature strategy, which includes impacts to biodiversity, water, climate and circularity by the global fashion supply chain.

On April 14 at the Portland edition of the Functional Fabric Fair, Echols will speak on a panel entitled “Reducing the Health Impacts of Solvents in Manufacturing.” Solvents are processing aids often used in creating products and materials. Some solvents can pose serious health risks for people involved in material production. Best practices on managing potential hazards will be discussed, as well as ways to accelerate the development of viable alternatives.

We got a sneak peak of what Echols is eager to share on the subject of sustainable chemicals.  

Textile Insight: What is your main focus right now at ZDHC?

Scott Echols: “Our main focus is advancing industry-wide adoption of sustainable chemical management across the textile, leather, and footwear industries. By improving chemical transparency, and fostering innovation, we empower brands and suppliers to eliminate hazardous substances, enhance water stewardship, and protect both people and ecosystems.”

How does that differ in Europe versus the U.S.?

“ZDHC applies a consistent global framework, ensuring that sustainable chemical management can be implemented regardless of regional regulations. Europe is driven by policies like the European Green Deal and Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), while the U.S. relies more on voluntary initiatives, with some states leading on stricter chemical policies. Our science-based tools and platforms enable brands and suppliers to align with best practices globally, no matter the regulatory landscape.”

Why focus on the health effects of solvents in textiles? What are the dangers and to whom?

“Certain solvents used in textile processing, such as dimethylformamide (DMF) and toluene, pose serious risks to workers through inhalation and skin contact, leading to organ damage and reproductive toxicity. Consumers may also be exposed to residual solvents, while emissions contribute to air and water pollution. This highlights the urgent need for safer alternatives and stronger chemical oversight.”‍

What are the alternatives and how far are they from coming to fruition?

“Safer alternatives such as water-based coatings, bio-based finishes, and supercritical CO₂ dyeing are commercially available, but scaling adoption requires investment, reformulation, and process innovation. ZDHC works with industry partners to accelerate this transition, ensuring that sustainable alternatives become viable, scalable solutions.”

What is the biggest worry about microplastics in textiles?

“Both synthetic and natural fibers shed microfibers that persist in ecosystems, enter the food chain and pose potential health risks. These fibers can also transport residual dyes and chemicals into the environment, contributing to secondary pollution. ZDHC is working with The Microfibre Consortium (TMC) to advance fiber fragmentation testing and drive industry-wide solutions in material innovation and filtration technologies to reduce microfiber pollution.”

As a scientist, what concerns you most in the textile industry?

“A lack of standardized data and impact measurement makes it difficult to track real sustainability progress. Greenwashing and unverified claims about biodegradability and recycled materials create confusion and slow down real change. We need stronger science-backed metrics, increased transparency and industry-wide commitment to measurable impact.”

How does cost-cutting endanger human health and the environment?

“Short-term cost-cutting can lead to long-term harm, including untreated wastewater, toxic chemical substitutions and continued use of harmful legacy chemicals and unsustainable materials. However, we are seeing more brands invest in long-term sustainability, recognizing that responsible chemical management strengthens business resilience, safeguards human health and preserves ecosystems.”

What are the biggest challenges in sustainability right now?

“Scaling impact, ensuring chemical transparency and translating consumer demand into real industry action remain major challenges. ZDHC is addressing these by providing science-based standards, scaling innovations and fostering industry-wide accountability to accelerate measurable impact.”