Summer
2024
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Material Innovation
On Pace Performance
Vander Jacket: Aspects of the brand’s supply chain are predominantly found within the Centennial state of Colorado. Garments are made by the hands of runners and skilled sewers and feature upcycled functional fabrics.
A movement is afoot in today’s running world. Leading the way is a growing collective of niche and emerging brands, ushering in fresh design thinking and an innovative use of materials that elevates run apparel in terms of style and substance, leaving the traditional runner’s “uniform” in the dust. Community and sustainability are values tightly woven into the ethos of these businesses. Clothes are crafted with an emphasis on versatile functionality, often combined with a streetwear influence, and tailored to a run culture open to all.

Diversity in running has grown significantly with an estimated 16 million runners identifying as BIPOC and 46 percent of American marathoners identifying as female, according to research conducted by the Running Industry Diversity Coalition and the 26.2 Foundation. Casual runners outpace serious runners almost three to one, according to a recently released Fleet Feet 2024 Report, with casual runners logging an average 17 miles run per week.

Textiles play an important role in today’s runwear revolution. Responsible materials, such as recycled synthetics and eco-friendly fabric technologies for enhanced wicking and odor control, are notable this season. Comfy cotton blends and super-soft lightweight fabrications with easy stretch also feature. Durable, yet breathable technical materials star in new trail collections. Overall, form follows function and attention to design details is paramount; pockets, pockets, pockets!

A contemporary outlook on product and purpose is also key. Brands share a determination to take running apparel to a higher ground and drive positive change within the sport. Intentional product development with greater emphasis on ethical sourcing of materials and supply chain transparency, in tandem with advancing inclusivity with recreational run clubs, upbeat campaigns and outreach initiatives, are corporate priorities.

The brands featured here exemplify how the run apparel category is evolving with performance being re-imagined in new and different ways that are exciting for industry and individuals alike.

Fresh Ideas Are In, Cookie Cutter Looks Are Out

“The greatest factor driving innovation in running is the amount of new companies entering the market bringing fresh ideas,” states Brett Farrell, founder, Territory Run Co., a trail running apparel brand based in Portland, OR. “Each company brings their own style, vibe and energy and that offers a much larger pool of offerings for runners. It used to be that if you are a runner you will look one way because all the running brands had a similar vibe. Now you can be a runner and still bring in your identity and style.”

Monica DeVreese, co-founder of California-based brand rabbit, defines the company’s “bold new vision” as breaking away from the traditional, mass-market approach and creating thoughtful, intentionally-designed gear that combines function, comfort and style. “We’re constantly re-thinking performance and incorporating cutting-edge functional textiles into our product development. We understand that today’s runners demand more from their gear—not just in terms of aesthetics, but also in functionality and innovation.” Ergonomic designs, seamless construction, and strategic ventilation are all primary focuses in rabbit’s product development. Additionally, rabbit features high-tech Delta fabric and Fresh Face (peppermint) technology through its collaboration with Polartec.

New York City is home to Miler Running, a premium apparel brand launched in 2019 by Ben Morrow. “The word ‘performance’ is often slapped on any product for something more than casualwear,” asserts Morrow. “In a more perfect world, and what I strive for as a designer committed to developing only premium products, is to justify labeling anything as performancewear only if it is designed from the bottom-up to serve a special type of activity, both in functional and aesthetic way. Running is essentially movement in a very pure and elemental form, so the brand often reflects this minimalist origin.”  

A Sustainable Point of View

Morrow believes positive change should start with transparency and in the case of Miler, being transparent about the origins of materials and production is of particular importance. He explains, “With production exclusively in our homebase of New York City, we have a real and genuine relationship with the people that produce our products. This proximity and relationship create a better foundation for sustainability and equity.”

The same can be said of the running apparel brand Vander Jacket, except the city is Denver and deadstock is the material of choice. “You can’t lag behind on the function of the garment because there’s lots of function options available, but we can create cool, great looking apparel,” states Sarah Vander Neut, company founder and designer. Fabric used in jackets, vests, tanks and shorts is sourced from the bolts of unused fabric on the secondary market, a large portion of the fabric is locally-sourced from the Denver area.

Vander Neut says she makes “running clothes with meaning.” Asked to elaborate, Vander Neut offers, “It’s so cool that in the past decade the education around sustainability for consumers includes knowing  what deadstock is and understanding its value. That’s a big shift!” Traditional running wear is usually worn and quickly discarded, however, nowadays a big part of sustainability is holding onto products longer.

Vander Jacket’s one-of-a-kind pieces are keepers. “I would never downplay what a technical textile designer is working on, but the way we approach and achieve sustainability is not through technology, but through meaning,” says Vander Neut.  

Another apparel brand to watch is Ciele Athletics, which is B Corp certified, a label awarded exclusively to companies that voluntarily meet the highest standards for social and environmental performance. Jeremy Bresnen and Mike Giles founded Ciele Athletics in 2014 with the aim to move people to movement, to connection and to community. Initially exclusively focused on hats, the Montreal-based brand has made strides in recent years launching apparel. Recycled fabrics feature throughout headwear and clothing collections. According to Bresnen, the company looks to add technical natural fibers to its product repertoire.

Miler Running

The new  Dirt Collection debuts three technically-enhanced pieces, designed for trail and ultra-distance running, featuring featherweight, 4-way stretch Cordura nylon woven in France.

Rabbit

Ideal for everyday runs, this soft, lightweight On the Go Tank teams nicely with Leggy Smashems 5” shorts, that have epic storage available in the waistband and feature performance fabric technology to fight bacteria and eliminate odors.  

Ciele Athletics

The Windy collection is “designed for all” with a curated selection of headwear and garments that blend comfort, function and style.

Territory Run

Long Haul performance tee is made with soft recycled polyester with relaxed fit. Lightweight Long Hall Petal Palooza performance cap offers venting on side panels for cooling along with packable design.

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