PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are ubiquitous as stain-resistant, water-repellent and grease-proofing treatments for textiles, furniture, carpeting and many other products. DWR finishes and waterproof/breathable membranes (such as expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, or ePTFE) containing PFAS have enabled the success of outerwear and equipment for the outdoor industry and are critical components of protective gear for firefighters, medical personnel and the military.

In commercial use since the 1940s, PFAS are known as “forever chemicals” because they accumulate in the body and in the environment, potentially causing a range of detrimental health effects. Recent and proposed legislation will soon mandate the elimination of PFAS in textiles and most other end uses.

Legislation Leads

PFAS first came under regulation for Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (EU REACH) with legislation in 2006. An EU ban on C8 and C6 perfluorinated compounds has been in effect since 2019. However, the ban contains exemptions for the use of PFAS until suitable alternatives are developed, or through December 2036.

In 2023 the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) proposed a complete ban on the manufacture and use of PFAS within the EU and the European Economic Area. If adopted, broader restrictions will necessitate more rapid development of alternative chemistries.

In 2016, the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) banned the manufacture of two types of long-chain C8 PFAS: PFOS and PFOA. Currently individual state legislation bans PFAS in a variety of products. Bans on the intentional use of PFAS in apparel/footwear (California, New York) and in textiles (California, Colorado, Minnesota, and Washington state) come into effect on January 1, 2025. Both Washington and Minnesota will ban PFAS from all consumer products in 2030 and 2032, respectively.

In addition, the EPA is requiring all manufacturers and importers of PFAS since January 1, 2011, to report detailed product, chemical, health and environmental impact data by April 2025.

The Canadian government will likely categorize about 4,700 types of PFAS as toxic chemicals under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act. Companies are required to report on their manufacture, import, and use of PFAS by January 29, 2025.

Rethinking DWR

Fluorocarbon-based C8 and C6 chemistries work by reducing the surface tension of a fabric, so that water is “repelled” and rolls off.  Short-chain C6 chemistries were thought to break down faster and with less toxicity; but further research showed C6 compounds could be hazardous as well. The latest DWR products for textiles are focused on C-0 or “fluorine-free” chemistries built on plant-based copolymers, nature-based hydrocarbons or hydrophobic polymers.

While “these products often produce levels of water repellency rivaling the PFAS-based repellents, they are often not as robust in their processing, do not complement other finishes such as fire retardants well and do not offer appreciable oil or organic fluid repellency,” according to Textile Finishing Options Amid Tightening PFAS Restrictions, a recent white paper from Organic Dyes and Pigments LLC (ORCO).

Recently acquired by ORCO, Bolger & O’Hearn was the developer of Altopel F3, a PFC-free DWR with a bonding mechanism that works by forming a flexible and protective shell around each individual fiber so that it resists being removed. Altopel F3 is durable and when applied correctly to a substrate, the finish does not impact hand or air permeability.

In the ORCO white paper, Technical Manager Frank Keohan points out that several factors, including substrate material, preparation (scouring) and curing of the DWR finish all influence its repellency and longevity. “Fluorine-free replacements often require process variation from conventional fluorochemical repellents and provide little oil repellency,” he says. “The choice of repellent and application conditions are critical for obtaining maximum performance.”

Vince Hankins, VP Sales for ORCO, explains “The Bolger & O’Hearn business was attractive to ORCO for many reasons, including its complementary and highly innovative chemical solutions that marry well with our color competencies,” he explains. “Performance textiles are obvious targets, but we are also very interested in where these PFAS-free solutions can be applied in our other markets.”

‍Textile Firms Make Progress

Polartec was a leader in eliminating PFAS from its DWR finishes for its performance fabrics. Global Product Director Michael Cattanach explains, “We heard headwinds in the market, we spoke to our key customers and we decided to act rather than react, taking the decision to get completely out of the PFAS business by 2021.”

“Being ready with credible offers for non-PFAS materials has seen us well-positioned for success ,” Cattanach continues. “Upcoming legislation—such as AB1817 in California—and the greater prevalence of PFAS stories in mass media has helped speed the uptake and appetite for products that are made with sustainability in mind.”

Waterproof/breathable membranes combined with DWR coatings can mean the difference between life and death in extreme settings. Polartec’s Power Shield Pro fabric is a first-of-its-kind weather protection made from renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon and an innovative non-PFAS membrane. The durable, extremely breathable non-PFAS monolithic membrane construction provides 20/20 breathable waterproof protection (20k mm water resistance)/ 20k g/m2/24hrs breathability.

eVent Fabrics offers PFAS-free solutions. eVent BIO is a soft, stretchy, plant-based membrane paired with smartly-sourced or recycled face and backer fabrics. eVent alpineST, with a fluorine-free, polyolefin membrane laminated to recycled fabrics with C-0 DWR is “the best alternative to ePTFE,” says Shannon Walton, the company’s brand manager. With a 20k waterproof and 20k MVTR the durable textile holds its own after dozens of washings.

“There is going to be a massive change,” Walton predicts. “This is the last season textiles can be sold with ePTFE, and everyone is seeking reliable alternatives.”

Protecting First Responders

PFAS-based barriers and coatings add protection against stains, grease, oil, and chemicals and protective apparel for extreme or life-threatening situations remains exempt from PFAS legislation. A 2023 study at NC State’s Wilson College of Textiles acknowledges that non-PFAS moisture barriers may not repel oil or diesel fuel, potentially leading to burns. But in March 2023, the International Association of Firefighters filed suit against the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) for their testing standard requiring the use of PFAS in firefighter protective gear.

Fire companies in San Francisco; Concord, NH; and Vancouver, BC; are the first to transition to non-PFAS turnout gear. Fire-Dex has introduced a line of turnout gear using Stedair Clear by Stedfast, a Nomex woven laminated to a non-fluorinated barrier with a highly engineered polymer coating. The non-PFAS barrier surpasses the NFPA 1971 test requirements.

Firefighters also wear casuals, which may or may not comply with NFPA requirements, around the station and under their turnout gear. FILO is a line of Nomex station wear created by ex-firefighter Sean Conant using a non-PFAS wicking agent instead of a DWR finish.

Explains Conant, “We believe firefighters already face enough hazards on the job, and it’s crucial that their uniforms don’t add to those risks.”

Brands and Retailers Leave PFAS Behind

Outdoor brands such as Keen, Houdini, Fjallraven, Kari Traa, Jack Wolfskin, Patagonia and Prana are already PFAS-free or pledging to get there by 2025. Retailers including Target, REI, and Dick’s have committed to eliminating PFAS from their own apparel brands. There will be more to come.