Breakthroughs in evaluating characteristics of waterproof/breathables ushered in “comfort” testing in the early 1980s, followed not long after by companies dedicating entire labs to understanding material comfort for performance and lifestyle.

Fast-forward a few decades and industry’s quest for sustainable textiles is now ushering in a slew of next-generation materials, ranging from plant-based and lab-grown fibers to bio synthetics, eco-friendly technologies and green chemistry for finishes and coatings. Testing these new, innovative offerings provides important information for today’s brands on the hunt for product that bring functionality with a strong sustainability story.

But here’s the thing: are conventional test methods suitable to assess contemporary materials? Can equipment designed to test polyester, nylon, and animal fiber yarns accurately measure fabric made from banana husks and mushroom protein? I asked experts in the field to weigh in. Here’s what textile experts Diana Wyman and Harrie Schoots had to say on the relevance of traditional test methods in the age of eco-alternative materials.  

Trends & Takeaways

“Tests are driven by the needs of the industry; what are the claims trying to be substantiated and what is the industry trying to understand. Testing is key in this process, in terms of measuring performance, comparison and compliance.” says Diana Wyman, who recently joined REI as Senior Test Engineer, Co-op Brands & Shared Services, after a lengthy career at AATCC, including five years serving as the EVP of the NC-based organization.

“Fiber fragmentation is a great example of contemporary testing,” comments Wyman. “I am very impressed by how quickly and how collaboratively this was achieved.”

Reducing fiber fragmentation discharge into the environment has been a growing concern industry-wide  in recent years, with proven research that all textiles – synthetic and natural – release fiber fragments.  AATCC TM212 became available in the organization’s 2022 Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures.

The Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering Test Method is applicable to all textiles that are expected to withstand home laundering. Specimens are tested under conditions of temperature, detergent (optional) and agitation by using an accelerated laundering testing machine. The wash liquor is filtered and the mass of fiber fragmentation is measured. Swiss inspection agency SGS worked closely with AATCC in the development of this test method; in addition to collaboration with The Microfiber Consortium (TMC).

“There is definitely rising interest in novel textiles, with more and more people trying new things,” states Wyman. Whether these emerging next-gen materials need to meet traditional performance test criteria — within active/outdoor, for instance – depends on end use and target audience expectations, however, elements like laundering and colorfastness are required. “There is discussion around colorfastness and natural dyes and other unique color properties,” Wyman shares.  When asked does the textile need to meet the same colorfast test? And, does it matter?  Wyman responds, “Yes, it does. For most people these are basic expectations.”    

Sustainability is a big trend influencing testing and standards, believes Wyman, who spoke on the topic “Driving Textile Sustainability through Standards” at the Functional Fabric Fair in New York City this summer. “Standards for textiles involve everybody. We have to share knowledge and work together on standards to achieve sustainability goals,” says the exec. A standard specific to PFAS, for instance,  is now in early stages of development.

Questioning Modern Measuring

“This is not a popular answer to the question, but  nobody gets saved from the requirements,” says textile consultant Harrie Schoots. “The quickest answer is: The machinery and the test methods are not going to change. They are actually perfect. If we didn’t have them we wouldn’t be able to judge if these new bio products were worthy. Remember, true sustainability is that you have parity with what’s already there,” suggests Schoots, whose industry expertise spans raw material to garment production, in a wide-ranging textile career that includes senior business development leader at Houston, TX-based Ascend Performance Materials and a term as AATCC president.

Schoots explains that updates and innovations are ongoing. “What we’re experiencing is not a new dilemma faced by companies bringing new, different product to market and brands, from a variety of industries, asking ‘what do you need from me? A couple examples of testing modern product development over the years include wash testing front-loading washing machines and evaluating wearable technology in apparel applications.

Everyone has to pass the “first gate,” says Schoots. “Does it survive the knitting or weaving machine? Is it strong enough to be shot across a loom, handle the tension of the knitting equipment, hot temperatures, survive acids or bases?” He adds, “What we have must work. It needs to meet the industry where it is now; companies have to bring material into a testing lab and it must be brought to the existing testing equipment. And it must meet specs on the equipment, with consideration of the situation and the end use requirements.”

Schoots mentions the emtec TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer as a new instrument to measure material “hand” that fits well in today’s marketplace. The device measures the softness, roughness and stiffness of fabrics and nonwovens. It can also calculate a “hand” value that correlates with how humans expect fabric to feel. Additionally, the TSA measures fabric elasticity, plasticity and hysteresis, to determine stretch and recovery. “I’m really impressed,” remarks Schoots, about the new TSA machine, noting, that  “hand” is a benefit biomaterials bring to the market. “What we have in place works, but with next-generation bio materials offering other differentiators is a way to be contemporary.”