Close to a decade ago, Modern Meadow was a startup in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. Its execs had figured out a way to grow leather in a lab from skin cells that produce collagen. That collagen was turned into leather. It was an innovative idea that brands admired, but unfortunately, was not scalable.

The firm pivoted, finding new ways to produce leather-like materials from plant proteins and post-consumer waste. Brands including Tory Burch and Everlane have used its materials in handbags. Modern Meadow’s newest development, BIO-VERA has gained traction in the interior design space. BIO-VERA has the look, feel – and even smell – of leather and suede, yet is more sustainable than genuine animal leather and lighter weight. It is recyclable at all stages and the raw material drops into the existing leather industries traditional post-tanning process to reach completion.

During my visit to the Modern Meadow’s Nutley, NJ lab in December 2024, I witnessed how the firm is right-sizing their capabilities to appeal to more brands in the footwear and accessories space. I saw some of the white suede that was being turned out, which can be very difficult to perfect.

Modern Meadow CEO David Williamson, PhD, is bullish on BIO-VERA with a goal to “continue to spread adoption of this new, high-performing material that allows tanneries to create innovative, desirable products for brands.” The exec noted that the firm is also expanding global production, establishing facilities to serve regional markets more effectively, especially in Europe. Modern Meadow is also working to meet certification goals, namely to complete ISCC+ to “reinforce supply chain transparency and sustainability benchmarks.”

Key Learnings in Next-Generation Materials Development

Since the 2011 inception of Modern Meadow as a firm committed to using biology, engineering and design to create materials without the use of animals; there have been both challenges and wins. Williamson shares some of his key learnings:

Competing with Established Materials

“Traditional materials have benefited from decades of development, resulting in exceptional performance and cost efficiency. For next-generation materials to gain traction, they must match—or exceed—existing performance benchmarks while remaining cost-competitive. Brands are hesitant to widely adopt new materials unless they offer a compelling combination of performance, cost efficiency, and a resonant narrative. While limited capsule collections might be feasible, broad adoption demands robust justification.”

Scalability and Speed to Market

“Meeting production scale and ensuring rapid turnaround times is crucial. Designers and brands accustomed to swift supplier support often grow frustrated when materials remain stuck at the lab scale. Prolonged delays in scaling up can stifle interest and adoption, underscoring the importance of aligning with industry expectations for speed and availability.”

Consumer Demands and Cost Sensitivity

“While sustainability is a growing consumer priority, willingness to pay a premium remains limited—typically just 5–10% above standard costs. In a highly competitive industry, balancing sustainability goals with cost reduction is essential for widespread adoption.”

Challenges for Innovators in the Current Landscape

Just like Modern Meadow has encountered before, there are challenges in the growth and brand pickup of BIO-VERA. “Elevated inflation and a strained global economy have dampened brand enthusiasm for innovation, redirecting focus to cost reduction which complicates the adoption of new materials,” Williamson commented. Sustainable materials also often require significant time to achieve market readiness. Such timelines make it difficult to secure growth capital, which slows the adoption process.

Brand execs have become more demanding in what they want from new materials. While the story of the material is important to brands and consumers, bottom line, the material must perform and not be expensive – even down to the penny. “Brands now demand greater proof of concept and feasibility before committing to new materials,” Williamson said.

From the CEO of Modern Meadow: Advice for Startups Entering the Sustainable Materials Space

Prioritize Product Readiness

“Before engaging heavily with the industry, ensure the material is ready at the pilot scale. Early-stage engagements without a refined product can dilute interest and credibility.”

Leverage Existing Infrastructure

“Avoid developing costly, capital-intensive processes requiring new production equipment. Technologies that integrate seamlessly into existing industry ecosystems are more likely to achieve faster adoption. If the technology offering is both transformative and compatible, it can potentially lead to creative destruction (the process of replacing outdated production methods and processes with new ones) rapidly displacing incumbent technologies and reshaping the industry.”